Clyde’s – Tower Theatre, Stoke Newington

Writer: Lynn Nottage
Director: Phoenix Rayo

Reviewer: Christine Stanton

“All Bread, No Filling“

3 / 5

Truckers queue up in anticipation after travelling for miles to grab a sandwich from Clyde’s. The kitchen crew, all made up of ex-convicts, are on a mission to create the perfect sandwich, satisfy their customers, and do their best to stay out of no-nonsense boss Clyde’s way as much as possible.

Montrellous (Josiah Phoenix) is a sandwich connoisseur, constantly imagining new and innovative recipes to set the customers tastebuds alight. He views sandwich making as an art, each ingredient integral to his canvas of bread, and ensuring that passion and care are baked into every one. His long-time colleagues Letitia (Sabrina Robinson) and Rafael (Benedict Cezair-Thompson) are inspired by his commitment, the three of them applying the same mentality into their day to day lives as they rehabilitate back into society after a stretch in prison. Newbie Jason (Ciarán Lawless) has a lot to learn – from the expansive menu to ensuring he doesn’t say the wrong thing to Clyde (Layomi Coker) and put his job at risk.

Nottage’s storyline is enjoyable – the lengthy sandwich descriptions sound delicious, and the crew are all likeable, making it easy to root for them both in and out of the kitchen. Each has been given a second chance after prison, and their determination to rebuild their lives is an inspiring take. Though, as touching as their redemption arcs are – they never feel fully integrated, each character remaining frustratingly underexplored and offering only a surface level view into their lives. Montrellous is a role model to his brother, Letitia is doing her best to provide as a mother alongside the awkward shift patterns and Jason’s living out of a tent, but still making it to work each day. Despite these small glimpses into their struggles, it’s still hard to really connect with them on a deeper level, the script leaving emotional tones undeveloped and never fully unpacking them, instead settling for repetitive sketches and cartoonish interactions rather than putting the characters at the centre.

There is an odd pantomime-like quality woven throughout the performances which undermines both the comedy and the drama. Rather than heightening the humour, the exaggerated delivery often becomes distracting and rather annoying, diluting the emotional sincerity of the play’s more serious themes. Coker would be a brilliant panto villain, her ‘evil boss’ portrayal purposefully hammed up and over-exaggerated, as she frequently storms into the kitchen to berate the staff and reassert her authority. Phoenix delivers every line with over-dramatised, movie-trailer style narration. While occasionally amusing as Montrellous passionately describes his sandwich creations, the lack of tonal variation in other interactions, soon limits the character’s emotional depth. Robinson stands out for her believable, likeable portrayal of Letitia, balancing out her humorous connection with Rafael, with scenes of tender poignancy as she talks about her relationships and her child. Lawless also gives an enjoyable, realistic performance as the brooding newbie, and Cezair-Thompson adds some comedic relief as the kitchen jester.

Max Batty’s set design is a key ingredient to the success of this production. The incredibly realistic kitchen design immediately establishes the scene before a single line is even spoken. From the battered old doors, the shelves lined with products, the rusty grill – these small details all work together to create the well-utilised backdrop for the characters.

Runs until 23rd May 2026